updated 2/2011
George Nicoll of Leven was one of the great club makers, as described in this comprehensive collector's guide by
Roger Hill and Peter Georgiady.
From the Arlie Hall Club Maker Series
Contact the publisher the old fashioned way at:
Arlie Hall Press
PO Box 981
Kernersville, NC 27285-0981
or contact Roger Hill at (616) 285-6130 or roger@photospherestudio.com
Roger Hill and Peter Georgiady.
From the Arlie Hall Club Maker Series
Contact the publisher the old fashioned way at:
Arlie Hall Press
PO Box 981
Kernersville, NC 27285-0981
or contact Roger Hill at (616) 285-6130 or roger@photospherestudio.com
Thomas Stewart Jr.
Golf Cleek and Iron Maker
St. Andrews, Scotland
by
Ralph Livingston III
Golf Cleek and Iron Maker
St. Andrews, Scotland
by
Ralph Livingston III
There are two editions with a limit to the copies produced. Both editions are hefty for there types. Shipping can be significant. Both versions are 345 pages.
A Standard edition (500 copies) is a 6 x 9 paperback. The pages are be printed in B&W and the cover is in color.
$50 plus shipping
The Limited edition (75 copies) is a larger 8.5 x 11 size and hardcover bound in Linen with gold stamping.
There are select pages printed in color.
All numbered copies are SOLD OUT I have a few overrun copies available.For more info see please see the For Sale Page.
Please forward an email to the author titled 'Tom Stewart Book' to request shipping prices. An email with prices with shipping options will be returned. Paypal payment is available.
ralph@hickorygolf.com
What are the best balls to play hickories with?
by Randy Jensen
Golf balls for hickory play should be made with a low compression and/or a soft cover. High compression, hard cover golf balls transmit too much impact pressure into a hickory shaft and shorten the shaft's life, often dramatically. Wear on your wood heads is also greatly increased and the resultant chipping and cracking of these persimmon heads can be nearly eliminated through the use of a softer ball. The harder, two-piece modern golf balls are the least desirable ball for hickory play and did not exist in the hickory era. Additionally, it is not a good idea to hit typical, hard range balls with your hickory clubs. So what should you play?
I have found that for hickory driver swing speeds of over 100 mph, the best balls are: the Srixon Z Star, Bridgestone B330S, and the Titleist Pro V1.
For hickory driver swing speeds of 90-100 mph, try the Bridgestone B330 RX.
For slower swing speeds or anyone who desires a softer feel, try the Srixon AD 333 or Soft Feel, the Precept Lady, the Wilson Zip, or the Maxfli Noodle.
Chris McIntyre of San Diego, California, has been producing some interesting reproduction golf balls. Chris has a very nice gutty ball, a bramble ball, and a mesh pattern 1920s golf ball. Chris is working on a ball that will play very much like Bobby Jones' golf ball from the 1920s---a 1.62" diameter ball (a modern ball is 1.68" in diameter) that is slightly heavier than a modern ball. I have hit a prototype, and this ball was 20 yards longer than a Pro V1! Hopefully Chris will find a way to economically mass produce this ball for hickory players!
"Playing Hickory Golf" by Randy Jensen
"Playing Hickory Golf" by Randy Jensen is now offered as an e- book, that covers hickory golf from A-Z with over 350 photos. Chapters cover the history of golf and modern hickory golf, how to buy hickory clubs, how to restore the clubs, swing specific tips to help your hickory game including driving, irons, short game, putting and the mental game, as well as an appendix of modern hickory events and their winners.
classicgolf@hotmail.com
http://www.eclassicgolf.com for $50.
Chris McIntyre has figured out how to use old school compression molding with old golf ball molds to more accurately reflect the look and performance of balls of the eras. The balls that have previously been available poorly represented the performance of the balls they were intended to replicate. These balls are a huge step forward in helping to authentically reproduce the game as played in the Gutty era as well as the teen's and twenties. The ball on the left, the Flash, is the one to use for early twentieth century play and the ball to the right, the PH, is for Gutty era play
Check: www.playhickory.com/golfballs.htm
Eric Wolke is following in David Hamilton's footsteps and is producing authentic new Gutty Balls. If you own a Longnose Putter, you have to have one of these to occasionally putt with. The flight and landing of a real gutty when struck with an 1880's era iron is something to behold. If you have read anything by Horace Hutchinson on play during this era, after playing the real thing with the real clubs what you read will make a lot more sense. They do need to cure for six months and then be painted so you should check with Eric as to the status of his supply. The line scored ball is the most authentic to the 1880-90 era. Each color of raw gutty gives a ball of a different weight.
Please check; http://www.acaseric.com
"Neither Trench, Ditch or Dyke, made for the preservation of the Links, nor the Scholar's Holes, or the Soldier's Lines, Shall be accounted a Hazard; But the Ball is to be taken out and play’d with any Iron Club."
Historical Rules of Golf
www.ruleshistory.com
The Rules of Golf from the 18th Century to the modern day, as issued by the R & A, and arranged by historical period and topic. From 1952 the R & A and the USGA produced the Rules jointly, with variations being only in the appendices and local rules.
"In competitions, during gunfire or while bombs are falling, players may take shelter without penalty for ceasing play."